DIGITAL IMAGING

You may want to print this out for reading at your leisure?

I've not updated this article in a few years. But it's so basic much is the same with the exception that today's cameras have significantly improved.



A digital camera is in reality a mini portable computer with a lens attached.

By incorporating a neat 'auto' feature manufacturers have made them easy to use. Whether you've ever used a camera before or not, you can be taking great images with a minimal amount of preparation.

Before we get too far along I need to ask you something really important. Does your computer have a USB (Universal Servial Bus) or an unused Serial port? If not your in big trouble and you may want to put the purchase of a digital camera on hold. Not that you couldn't add that at some expense, but chances are, if your computer doesn't have a USB it's so old it probably doesn't have a gigabyte hard drive or a very fast processor, not to mention video ram and memory. Sorry! But you should know that before you blow away $500-$600. (These exceptional prices can be found from many companies selling on-line. WalMart is currently selling the Olympus for $499.) One more important point you should be aware of. Unlike film cameras digital cameras store images on magnetic surfaces. Therefore, there are no negatives. Think about that. This means if you do not have a device that stores mangetic images, like a CD writer, all your images will have to be stored on your computer. Do you see now why you need gigabyte hardware? The good news is today's CDRW's (CD-Reader/Writers) can write (store) permanent images to today's technically advanced CD's purported to have a life span from 70 to 200 years (see OSTA.ORG). Even at the low end, that's a significant improvement over film negatives or transparencies.

I'll only be discussing two cameras which are still popular, available, nearly identical in operation and similar in performance: Sony's Mavica F97 and the Olympus Camedia C2100. Yes, there are less expensive cameras, but they won't have a 10x optical lens, 2.1 Mgb pixel capability or Image Stabilization. May I gently and kindly say to Nature lovers of the BioMass family, you won't be happy with anything less. You get a lot of camera for the money. Probably the best value you'll ever find in a camera.

Both cameras under discussion have excellent 10x optical zoom lenses which is equivalent to roughly 40-400mm in a 35mm camera. You have seen the images from these cameras on both my site (the Olympus), and Dave Small's site (the Mavica). The Olympus has a 1.7x digital extension capability and the Mavica, 2x.

Both have a terrific image stabilizing feature which allows you to get sharp handheld images even at 400mm, and beyond with the digital enlargement feature. This along with a great auto-focus system makes them excellent imaging devices. They both have built in flash units. Both can switch from 'auto-focus' to manual focus and the Olympus has full manual overrides on exposure settings. (The Mavica has shutter and aperture priority overrides which, for all intents and purposes, is nearly as good.)

I like the manual focus on the Mavica because it's a ring on the end of the lens you simply turn, similar to SLR's (single lens reflex) cameras. On the Olympus manual focus is accomplished by pressing up and down arrows on the back of the camera. If you've owned a 35mm camera this will be disconcerting at first. You'll get used to it. About the only time I've used manual focus is shooting through thick branches at a subject. The auto focus wants to focus on the branches.

The major difference is the size and weight. The Mavica at 30.5 oz. is larger and heavier mostly because Sony still incorporates floppy disc capability which requires additional space and an additional motor drive. Thus, the increased weight and, unfortunately, a resulting higher price. You do not need to use the floppy feature but one use might be to transfer a photo from the memory card (see below) to the floppy to give to a friend. The Olympus at 21.3 oz, is lighter, more compact and has no floppy disc.

Both cameras use so-called media cards for memory, which is, for the purposes of this discussion, similar to the memory in your computer, but think of it as the 'film' in a film camera. As an example a 64 Mgb card can take 45 high resolution images. These 'cards' are roughly the size of 1/2 a business card and not much thicker and are inserted into the camera akin to loading a roll of film. You can easily remove the 'cards', but it is not necessary to do so because you can download your images via a cable (included) directly from the camera to your computer. (Reasons to remove a card would be if you were going to use what is called a 'card reader' which is self explanatory, for downloading, or if you wanted to install a higher memory card.) You really don't have to worry much about the card.

I'm going to avoid getting into superfluous details as I further explain how to use the camera.

Because a digital camera is an electrically-operated computer-driven device, it needs to be turned on just like turning on your computer at home. You'll discover that all the important operating controls are well placed for easy manipulation. On the Olympus, the 'on-off' switch is at the upper right and I just use my thumb to flip it on. It takes about 2 seconds to load its internal program. (That's one of two significant differences from a film camera and a drawback if you spot a deer running through the woods, or a bear charging you...the time it takes the computer to 'boot up' before the shot can be taken.) On top of the 'on-off' switch is a knurled knob with several lettered notches which represent different modes of operation, or settings if you prefer. For now, all you need to know is to set it on 'A', that's A for Auto-everything. It'll now do everything for you except cook the evening meal.

The shutter release button (a misnomer because there is no shutter) is adjacent to the 'off-on' switch. Surrounding the shutter release button is a lever which operates the zoom lens. This makes it quite easy to zoom, focus and shoot without taking your eyes from the object in the viewefinder. In fact, the Olympus is so light and ergonomically balanced you can easily work the shutter, zoom, and focus with one hand, even if you have small hands. (I've taken photos of butterflies and newts on my left hand while shooting with my right.)

Once you have composed your object in the viewfinder, you press halfway down on the shutter release button. This simultaneously sets the focus and the exposure and it's accomplished in a split second, or 'really fast'. The camera beeps at you to tell you its ready, and then you press the shutter release button fully down. The picture is taken. Here comes the second drawback. Same thing. The image has to be 'written' to the memory card. And depending on what resolution you've set the camera for, this can take a fraction of a second to 2 seconds, but ususally about 1 1/2 seconds for a high resolution JPG formatted image. That's 1 1/2 seconds before you can take the next shot. If I had a single complaint about digital cameras, that would be it. The time between shots. With the Olympus, if you hold the shutter down, it'll take the next shot immediately after it writes the first without having to recalulate focus and exposure settings. That takes some of the sting off. I'm quite certain it won't be long before someone figures a way to load the image on one path and reset the camera on another.

However, having said that, you CAN set the camera to take from 3 to 5 exposures simultaneously which is comparable to the 'auto-advance' feature on a good 35mm camera. You can also set that feature to 'bracket' your exposure. That is, to advance at different exposure settings. Professional photographers usually bracket their subject mostly because it gives them an edge on lighting anomalies. The beauty of a digital camera is you don't have to bracket because what you see is what you get! (Remember WYSIWYG anyone?) All I've just said, you don't need to know to get great shots. Those are the 'bells and whistles' or more correctly, advanced features. Some folk don't even want to know 'advanced features'... it's too scary! Personally, I love them.

Congratulations, you've just taken your first digital photo. If you want to see it, you just turn that knurled knob on top of the 'off-on' switch to the 'view image' setting and, voila!, the image immediately loads on the screen at the back of the camera. Neat-o! Now, turn the knob back to that 'auto' everything setting and your ready for your next shot! Feels great!

I will tell you about one advanced feature I really love. It's called 'AEL' which stands for Automatic Exposure Lock. On the Olympus, it's a small button located on the top right back of the camera. Let's say your at your favorite pond. It's Fall. The colors along the edge of the pond and just in front of you are gorgeous. But the sky behind is so overpowering the internal light meter displays an image in the viewfinder that is so dark the foliage looks like a silhouette. (I like that word, 'silhouette'. The way it rolls off the tongue. It's French of course, after Etienne de Silhouette, a derogatory description of an inept minister of Finance in France during the late 1700's.)

Anyway back to our terrible predicament. What to do! Simple, lower the camera away from the powerful backlighting 'til the internal light meter sees more earth than sky. Now the colors begin to come to life. When you find just the right colors, press and release the AEL button. This locks in that exposure setting. Now recompose the picture exactly the way you want it and take the shot. Voila! (Another French word meaning 'behold' or 'there it is.' Do you notice my penchant for French?) A gorgeous Fall foliage shot. As soon as the shutter button is pressed, the Automatic Exposure Lock is disabled and the camera returns to normal exposure mode. This can also be done manually, but if you forget to change it you'll spoil the next shots 'til you notice what you've forgotten. With the AEL, you don't need to remember. It does it for you. Neat! I love it! OK enough of that.

Now we're ready to load the images into the computer. How do we do that? ...I forgot!   (Kidding!)  :>)

With either camera package, you get a really nice graphics software program on CD(s), and a cable for either a USB port or a Serial port, and a thick scary manual. (Don't be intimidated by the manual. Yes, you will need the patience to read the 'getting started' and 'basic functions' pages of the manual to learn where to load the batteries, locate the 'on' button, the 'shutter release' button and a few other basic features.) If you don't know where or what those ports are, e-mail me for help. By the way, please feel free to e-mail me concerning any questions you may have about all this 'high tech' stuff!

You first need to load the graphics program. Just slap the CD into your computer and stop fussing about it! Read the instructions on the screen, you'll be fine. Kidding aside, if you get any strange messages, stop and read them carefully. Write down what it says so you can explain it to a 'techie'. Look for an option to discontinue loading and click on it. I've gone into more detail about that ahead.

Unless, by some good stroke of luck your computer already has a compatible driver, the disc will probably prompt you to load a new 'driver'. A driver is exactly what it says it is. It's a program that tells the computer it's going to get some new information and how to handle it. It drives it from your new device through all those nifty cards you got on your motherboard to the appropriate program. If your going to get into trouble this is where it will occur. On rare occassions a new driver may try to get into a slot that is already shared by other drivers and it's full or otherwise incompatible. This is very rare, but I've seen it happen and I thought I should alert you. It usually only happens if since you bought your computer you've added a new device or a card that drives a new device such as a scanner, CD writer or DVD reader. A smart thing to do before you add any new drivers is to run a 'Config Safe' program. Confused about that, e-mail me for help if your running in WIN platform. Sorry, I know very little about MAC's or the LINUX platforms. Or phone me if you start to panic (978-249-8478).

Assuming all goes well, you'll get a brandy-new icon that says Camedia or Mavica or the name of the graphics program. With Olympus it says Camedia. Do exactly what the program prompts you to do concerning when and where to make your connections.

Usually once the driver is safely aboard, you can connect one end of the cable to the appropriate port on your computer. Once connected I usually leave the cable attached to the computer and just wrap the cable out of the way. Next open your new graphics program by clicking, or double clicking on it. Now attach the other end of the cable to the proper receptacle on the camera. Check the diagram in your manual to find it. Now turn the knurled knob with all those letters on it to the'display' mode and turn the camera on.

In Camedia, click on 'camera' from the menus at the top of your screen, then 'download all images'. A window will open asking where you want to load your images? I usually have a new file ready in 'My Documents' folder. Or you can just click on 'My Documents' or some such thing. Write down the file name so you won't forget where you put them. The camera will now transfer the images from the camera's media card to the file of your choosing. It takes about a minute to download 45 images. The card does not have to be full. If you only took three images and want to download them, feel free! (A benefit over film cameras.) After you've completed the download, turn the camera off and disconnect the cable from the camera.

Now, while still in this same graphics program, locate the file you sent the images to by browsing through the window on the left of your screen and click on it. Voila! Your images are displayed as thumbnails. To view them I like to use the 'slideshow' from the 'view' box which is just to the right of the 'camera' box you previously clicked on. You get a full window view with no typewritten clutter around the edges. Click on the pic to go the next one. Hit escape to escape.

If all the images look good, and they will, get into the habit of deleting the images from your camera right away. See the manual on how to do this. Otherwise, when your in the field and turn the camera on for that great animal shot, you'll discover the card is 'full' and you'll have to stop and delete them there. Maddening if you've forgotten how, and the manual is sitting on the coffee table at home. I highly recommend carrying the manual with you 'til you develop confidence.

I've used SLR's for some 20 years with excellent results. But I don't think I'll ever go back. I love the digital graphics technology. If you've been thinking digital, this is the time. Don't be intimidated by this sophisticated technology.

Consider this: You learned how to use your computer, you can learn digital imaging. Camera or not, may you enjoy the woods and its wildlife for many years to come.

Dick Cooper
Athol, MA
Sunday, Oct. 28th, 2001